Tile Over Tile Radiant Heated Bathroom Floor Miracles Always Happen Under A Tent A Gazebo Or A Canopy Tinkling Wind Chimes The Importance Of A Pest Inspection Why You Should Avoid Fiberglass Drywall Tape Like The Plague
Tile over tile means exactly what it says, but in this case you’re going to sandwich a layer of radiant heating mats between the old and the new tile. Tile over tile is an easy way to avoid the mess associated with tearing up the old bathroom floor, but requires thorough planning.
Before you install a radiant heat mat over the old bathroom tile and install new tile over the mat, you should check the floor for deflection.This is the maximum amount the floor can move under the anticipated load (you). Ceramic tile is hard and will break or dislodge if the surface bends under the load. Here’s a simple test:
Stand in the middle of the bathroom floor and jump up and down. If the floor moves it has a deflection problem and is not a good candidate for tile over tile installation until you reinforce the sub-floor.
Avoid That Sinking Feeling:
Since you’re tiling over tile, you must plan in advance to avoid making the vanity, toilet and tub look like they’re “sinking” into the new floor.
Fortunately, many of the new radiant heating mats are no thicker than the depth of the mortar you would ordinarily apply for most tile installations. Combine this with a tile thickness of
As a young boy, the sight of a big tent in the open field at the edge of the city where I lived would bring shouts of joy. The big giant tent rising like a mega structure that wasn’t even there barely 24 hours ago would now assumed the porportions of a new metropolis, a world of itself where the little kids and their parents would be entertained by those laughing clowns, and those big elephants, and the tigers….and so miracles always happen to little boys and girls when they see a giant tent which we now call the Big Top – the circus place.
As an adolescent, and while in college, the sight of the Big Tent seemed less and less….and one day, I saw a big tent again in the open field at the edge of the city. It was a plain looking canvas tent, like a large canopy, and a big sign board on the ground declared ” Roy Durman, Travelling Evangelist from Canada”. That night, the parking grounds were full, thousands of people thronged the grounds where the tent was, filling the tent to the brim and with hundreds more waiting outside the tent. It was a sight to behold …people who were in need of prayer, the sick and the lame, the blind, the deaf and the aged and feeble…these were the people who were there for prayer. The next day, it was in the newspapers that many received their healing. Yes, miracles do happen under a tent!
Now, we do not see these big tents anymore in the city grounds, and so my heart would jump a beat or two whenever I see a smaller canopy or a smaller gazebo or a canvas tent anywhere in the backyard of a house in the city.
Unlike the mono color of the giant big top of the circus or the travelling evangelist, I now see open walled gazebos, 4 walls gazebos and 8 walls gazebos and tents with attractive sunny colors that will draw your attention a long distance away, often with some bright slogans or advertising a company.
There under these tents, canopies and gazebos we see instant exhibitions, mini trade fairs, wedding receptions, temporary sign up counters for some events, recruitment drives and promotional desks.
Tents, canopies and gazebos do really make things happen!
Now, as an adult, I found whenever I need some extra space in the outdoors or in the backyard, a gazebo, a canopy or a tent is the perfect solution to my too-hot, too- sunny, too-uncomfortable deck or patio. With a new gazebo or tent or canopy, my deck or patio has become my favorite “outdoor living space” in my house!
Beneath the protection of a gazebo, friends can gather, families can relax and business associates can meet. Close fellowship has been fostered, relationships have been mended, rapport has been established between friends and acquaintances. Creating a special place has never been this easy with a gazebo, tent or canopy.
Yes, at this time and age, miracles of fellowship, of gathering and association still do happen under a tent!
Have you found your miracle of fellowship under a gazebo, a tent or canopy yet?
Wind chimes are otherwise called as Aeolian chimes which are played by the wind. The frequency of the wind chimes is determined by the length, width, thickness and material. The wind chimes are generally made of materials like metal, wood or rubber ball which may be hung in the center.
Wind chimes are eminent for generating pleasing sound; it will be best decor for your home and garden. Wind chimes are thought to be good luck in Africa and are used in Feng Shui.These wind chimes produce pleasant tinkling to dull bangs. The clappers are made from metal, some from wood, or another material to produce variations of sounds.
Wind chimes are used ever since the prehistoric times. There is belief that wind chimes are hung over the door to keep out wicked spirits and fend off evil omens. Some of the tunes produced by wind chimes have a healing effect. The sound improves concentration. reduce stress and soothe your mind. The metal chimes are best for North, Northwest and West whereas the wood chimes are said best for South, Southeast and East.
Wind chimes with 4,6,7,8 or 18 rods are used for luck and using 5 rods to reject bad energy. The wind chimes are available in variety of designs and materials for you to hang out. The wind chimes are hanged such the place must have less wind blow, because a strong wind may damage your chimes.
Wind chimes add beauty to your garden and home, they also figurative of harmony and peace. These chimes are best for decorative purpose, made of aluminium sound best, but made to look like copper for decorative purpose. These wind chimes look great for giving gifts.
Wind chimes not only add beauty to your home/garden but also some of the tones and vibrations are helpful to pacify your mind.
The excitement of buying a new home and the desire to save money can lead the potential homeowner down a dark, crumbling drywall road. Some people think that a pest inspection is an unnecessary and costly step in the home buying process, especially if neighboring houses don’t have a problem or the owner swears upon the sanctity of their mother’s grave that there are no bug problems. However, I believe that it is a lot more costly to pay to evict two million tiny squatters and repair the damage they cost you.
Some people are of the opinion that pests only infest lower-quality houses and condos, but this is fallacious in the extreme. Any residence can serve as a cafeteria for wood-destroying organisms. And, if you’re paying several hundred thousands of dollars more than the homes you would think would be more prey to this kind of problem, doesn’t it make sense to make sure that money is well invested in a solid structure?
A pest inspection is often called a termite inspection because termites are the most infamous of the pests who like to snack on your house and belongings. However, there are more critters out there that like to argue the merits of pine vs fir. Some of these include carpenter ants, carpet beetles and silverfish. All of these pests like wood, but they can leave different evidence that only an experienced person can detect.
Like the home inspection, the pest inspection should be part of your paperwork. Your offer to purchase the home should be conditional upon the home meeting a standard that you have determined that you can live with. Sometimes a small nest of nasties can be eradicated with a small outlay of time and noxious chemicals. However, if the supports of the house resemble birds’ bones, you should take your down payment and back slowly away.
A good pest inspector is going to take their time to thoroughly inspect your house. Since a lot of pests don’t always go out of their way to yell, HI! I’m HERE!” to the concerned home buyer, pest inspectors have to crawl into out-of-the-way spots, like the attic or basement, to check for signs. It’s sometimes a dusty and dirty job, but most pest inspectors are prepared for this.
Before you invite a pest inspector to look over your future domicile, it’s wise to ask them questions, check out their references and check their licensing. Licensing can vary from state to state, so be aware of the laws of your area. During the inspection, the inspector should be willing to answer your questions and point out problem areas. You should get a full report and an estimate of the standard that the home meets.
Keep in mind that a pest inspector is not Superman; X-ray vision is beyond them. They cannot guarantee that your future residence is free of pests; just that it appears free. Many recommend regular inspections, to catch problems before they become a serious threat to the soundness and equity of your house.
The truth is, it has its place, but – please! not on your drywall
Yes, my view of this is controversial. And I have my (good) reasons.
Actually, people who use fiberglass tape instead of paper tape for drywall taping are helping me make a living.
As a drywall finisher and a plaster repair specialist, I have made thousands of dollars over the years repairing drywall seams taped with fiberglass. Thanks, folks.
What happens? Drywall seams need a RIGID tape to stay closed. Especially over butt joints, the fiberglass taped seam will wiggle ever so slightly some time down the road after finishing, and presto! a hairline crack develops right down the middle of the joint.
The tape isn’t broken. It’s just that the drywall mud overcoat is not rigid enough – tough enough – to add the strength necessary to permanently secure the joint.
How do I know this? Well, for one thing, I have noticed that the long, recessed drywall seams tend to stay taped better. With those seams, the mud overcoat is thicker because it is filling the valley where the tapered edges of the drywall come together. You get some extra toughness.
I understand the allure of fiberglass tape. Slap it down on that crack and mud ‘er up. No blisters, etc. So easy and comfortable, especially for the novice taper. And every do-it-yourself website and magazine article promotes it.
Yes, it is harder to learn to use paper tape properly. For the newcomer to drywall taping, there are issues of laying the mud on evenly, wiping the tape down properly, avoiding humps on the butt joints, and so on.
These are learnable skills, and they pay big dividends after the job is finished and painted. Nothing is more irritating to the customer or homeowner living in his new home/addition than to see cracks developing in his new walls or ceilings.
As I said in the beginning, there IS a place for fiberglass tape. First of all, it the tape of choice for plasterboard seams under veneer plaster. This is what it was developed for in the first place. It works very well in this setting, because veneer plaster is far harder and tougher than drywall compound.
But, there is a place where fiberglass tape can help in the drywall trade, and that is in the repair end of the business. Around doors and windows, cracks in the drywall are common. A little extra movement in the framing there and you get these unsightly defects.
When I repair such cracks, I want some extra insurance. What I will do is use short pieces of fiberglass tape – maybe three inches long or so – and place them in a bed of mud ACROSS the crack and parallel to each other. I wipe out the excess mud, just as I would with paper tape.
When this first layer of tape is hard, then I lay down a line of paper tape right across the fiberglass and centered on the underlying crack. Now I have double insurance: the glass for lateral strength and the paper to keep it tight to the surface. This usually takes care of such cracks, or any cracks you are particularly concerned about. (Don’t forget two or more topping coats.)
I do the same operation or a variant of it on bad plaster cracks.
One last point. I’ve emphasized toughness of the compound you use. For that reason, I like “hot mud”, a setting type joint compound more like plaster for strength. If you are unsure of yourself and your speed, it would be good to use hot mud with a longer setting time, like an hour or 90 minutes. Mix small batches and don’t forget to wash your tools and pans well between batches..
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